Welcome back to Week 2 of our Bias Cut Skirt Sew-Along!

Today we will be tackling cutting out our fabric and starting the construction, so let’s get started.

If you are using the same pattern as us, McCalls M7931, you will find that we aren’t following the instructions in order. We see sewing instructions as more “guidelines” than set instructions! 

SEW-ALONG QUICK LINKS:

Week 1 – Patterns and Fabrics

Week 2 – Cutting and Construction Part 1

Week 3 – Construction Part 2

TIME TO GET CUTTING

As briefly mentioned in Week 1, the bias of a fabric is at a 45 degree angle to the straight grain and cross grain. This type of cut gives a garment a lovely drape, but it does have a lot more stretch to the fabric. You need to make sure that you handle your fabric as gently and as little as possible, to prevent it from stretching out.

Here are our top tips for cutting out:

• Always cut your pattern pieces out on the single layer, and not on the fold.
  • If you cut on the fold, you may not be cutting on the true bias, and when then happens it can alter the fit of your skirt.
• To make sure your pattern pieces are placed correctly on to your fabric, check that the grainline on your pattern piece is parallel to the fabric selvedge.
• When laying your fabric out on the cutting table, make sure your fabric isn’t hanging off the edge of your table, as this can distort your fabric.
• Use pins! You will find that your cutting will be more accurate when pinning your pattern pieces to your fabric, as opposed to using pattern weights.
• Use a rotary cutter. We prefer to use a rotary cutter for cutting out our skirt, as you are able to keep the fabric flat whilst cutting. If you prefer to cut with scissors, take your time and be careful to not lift/handle your fabric too much.
• It’s important to follow the lay/cutting plan on your pattern .  The grainlines of your front and back skirt pattern pieces must meet in the opposite direction (as illustrated below), this will give your skirt a balanced and swishy look! If you ignore the layout and you cut your fabric wrongly, your skirt could end up looking twisted.

• Once you’ve cut your pieces, gently roll them up and place to one side until you need them.
  • If you need to move your pattern pieces between different tables, then this is the best way to handle them going forwards.

For McCalls M7931 (we are using View C, without the side split)  you will need to make sure you cut out the following;

1x Back Skirt, 1x Front Skirt, 1x Front Facing and 1x Back Facing.

You will also need out 1x Front facing and 1x Back facing from your interfacing.  If you are adding in the zip, we suggest that you also cut out 2 strips of interfacing measuring approx 1.5cm x 25cm. 

All cut out, it’s on to the construction!

CONSTRUCTION PART 1

Before we go through the step by step construction, here are our top tips for sewing with bias cut fabrics; 

• Handle fabric carefully when moving pattern pieces between your sewing table/sewing machine/ironing board.
• Don’t pull or stretch your fabric whilst stitching your seams.
• Try to keep your fabric as flat as possible (and not hanging off table edges etc), when stitching or ironing.
• Bias Cut edges don’t fray (yeay!), so it’s not necessary for you to finish your seams, but you can if you prefer to.
• When ironing/pressing seams, press softly and iron by lifting your iron in an up and down motion, as opposed to ironing across the fabric, this will ensure your seams don’t stretch out.
• It’s best to use a NARROW ZIG-ZAG stitch when sewing with bias cut fabric. A stitch length of 2 – 2.5 and a stitch width of 0.5 is best. This narrow zig-zag stitch allows your stitches to move and stretch in a similar manner to your fabric.

NOW FOR THE CONSTRUCTION

• Fuse your INTERFACING FACING pieces to the wrong side of the matching FACING pieces you’ve cut from your fabric

• TIP: This step isn’t included in the pattern, but if you are adding in a (concealed) zip, then we  suggest that you fuse the strips of interfacing to the side seams on the FRONT and BACK skirt pieces where your zip will be sewn into. These strips of interfacing will help to stabilise the fabric and stop it from stretching out when sewing in the zip. 

• TIP:  Another step that isn’t included in the pattern. Stay stitch along the waist seam on both the FRONT SKIRT and BACK SKIRT, using a 10mm seam allowance. The stay stitching will help to prevent your waist line from stretching out.

 

• Sew in your concealed zip (using a 15mm seam allowance) on the FRONT SKIRT and BACK SKIRT, down the side seams that you’ve just added the strips of interfacing to. We prefer to insert the zip, before sewing the side seam, as we find you can get a cleaner finish at the point where the side seam/zip meet.

• Pin the rest of this side seam, right sides together and sew the rest of the seam, using a 15mm seam allowance and narrow zig-zag stitch.

• Place FRONT SKIRT and BACK SKIRT right sides together and pin down the other side seam and sew using a 15mm seam allowance and a narrow zig-zag stitch. Press both side seams gently.

• And now you will have a skirt that resembles something like this! At this point, it’s best to try on your skirt and make any fitting adjustments. If you have to take in/out the waist, make sure to note how much you have adjusted it by, as you will have to sew the facing using the same allowance/adjustments.

Tune back in next week, where we will finish the waist with the facings and then on to hemming, but for now, keep your skirt and pattern pieces flat/rolled up on a table.

If you are sewing along with us don’t forget to share your progress with us over on our social media channels, simply tag us in your posts and use the hash tag #JustSewPenrithSewALong